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August 25, 2011

Thursday’s Child: Destination Copenhagen

Destination: Copenhagen, Denmark

When we visited: August 2011
Why to go:

A beautiful city in its own right, we stayed here a night before and after a cruise of the Baltic region of Europe.
What to see:
The Little Mermaid is internationally known as the symbol of Copenhagen.  This statue represents the famous story written by Hans Christian Anderson, on which the Disney movie by the same name was based. 
Tivoli Gardens is almost as well-known as the Little Mermaid.  Founded in the mid-19th century, this combination amusement park and garden is both photogenic and fun.  Helpful comments from the girls about the rides:  The Demon was the wildest, craziest ride.  The Star Flyer had a great city view.  And the Odin Express was “quaint” (their favourite adjective, used to describe slow roller coasters and their mother’s childhood).
The Star Flyer, from the ground up.
Nyhavn is a beautiful area with a canal running through it that’s lined with 18th century homes.  Originally the sailors’ section of town, now it’s full of trendy restaurants that overlook the canal and the boats. 
And our first night in Copenhagen, we went to the Ice Bar.  Everything in the bar (tables, shelves, glasses) is made of ice.  They gave us parkas and mitts in the entry area.  Then we entered the bar to order drinks.  I had the Delicious Pink, Andrew had the Rough Diamond, and the girls each had a non-alcoholic fruit cocktail.  Management had thoughtfully provided blankets on the ice benches, which made sitting a little more comfortable.  It was a lot of fun, but even with those blankets, not necessarily a place you’d want to linger. Oh, and in case you’re curious, I had to ask the bartender why we could drink from glasses made of ice without our tongues getting stuck.  Apparently, at a constant temperature of minus 5 degrees Celsius, it isn’t cold enough or dry enough for that to happen.
Ice chandelier
Where to stay:
Copenhagen, like many Scandinavian cities, is very expensive.  I spent a lot of time searching in vain for an inexpensive, centrally-located hotel.  What I did find was the Clarion Hotel Twenty seven.   Although the rooms were tiny (smaller than those on the cruise ship!), the hotel was less expensive than most and situated in a fantastic location, just a block from City Hall and five minutes’ walk from Tivoli.  And to seal the deal, breakfast and an early dinner buffet were both included in the price.
Where to eat:
On the recommendation of our hotel clerk, the day we went to Tivoli we had lunch at Grøften.  It was our only chance to try Danish food, and my potato soup with bacon was filling and terrific.  This restaurant was also where we saw Roger Moore, who was at a table about fifteen feet away from us.  The thrill of seeing him left me shaken, not stirred.
The Andersen Bakery can be reached from either inside or outside of Tivoli.  Their gorgeous baked goods make a wonderful breakfast or mid-day snack. 
And our splurge meal was at Relae restaurant.  This is where we ate the pickled seaweed, which was served with baked celeriac and black olives.  And I don’t think I’ve ever seen a more beautifully presented starter than the leeks, served in mustard breadcrumbs.

Filed Under: Denmark

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Kayte says

    August 25, 2011 at 1:26 pm

    Wonderful…just love the photos and it is so nice of you to include all the recommendations. Someday!!

    Reply
  2. Claudia says

    August 25, 2011 at 1:41 pm

    I have yet to wander any of the beautiful Scandinavian countries. My father went there on business and raved. Such a lovely experience (Roger Moore included).

    Reply
  3. Rebecca from Chow and Chatter says

    August 25, 2011 at 1:50 pm

    oh would love to go there, have you read 5 star foodies scandinavian blog posts 🙂

    Reply
  4. Jess says

    August 25, 2011 at 1:59 pm

    Wow, Copenhagen looks/sounds fantastic! I love the photos, but my favorite part of this post was:

    “quaint” (their favourite adjective, used to describe slow roller coasters and their mother’s childhood).

    That made me smile more than anything else today 🙂

    Reply
  5. LDH says

    August 25, 2011 at 3:40 pm

    So excited to see Copenhagen through your post! Lovely visit!

    Reply
  6. laxsupermom says

    August 25, 2011 at 7:02 pm

    Sounds like a wonderful trip! That ice chandelier is just gorgeous! Although, I don't know how long I'd be able to sit comfortably. Thanks for sharing.

    Reply
  7. Lizzy says

    August 25, 2011 at 7:36 pm

    Sign me up!!! Another gorgeous locale to visit for my bucket list. Had to giggle at your Roger Moore comment 🙂

    Reply
  8. laurie says

    August 25, 2011 at 7:46 pm

    I agree..it's on my bucket list!

    Reply
  9. Tiffany says

    August 25, 2011 at 8:47 pm

    What a beautiful photo tour! Thanks for the recommendations!

    Reply
  10. Victoria says

    August 25, 2011 at 8:56 pm

    Looks like a beautifull city, and even more beautiful are those mustard breadcrumb-encrusted leeks 🙂

    Reply
  11. Belinda says

    August 25, 2011 at 9:03 pm

    How simply lovely! Maybe this is the stop for the fall…love that beautiful statue.

    Reply
  12. Valerie says

    August 25, 2011 at 10:22 pm

    Ooo leaks served in mustard crumbs…too good to be true!

    Gorgeous photos, Beth. And thanks for all the helpful tips on where to go and what to see. 🙂

    Reply
  13. tenaciouslyyours.com says

    August 26, 2011 at 1:55 am

    I could barely keep reading after seeing the canal houses. How beautiful!

    Separately, yes. I think we all need to try this leek arrangement ASAP.

    Reply
  14. Newyorkerbyheart says

    August 26, 2011 at 9:55 am

    Beautiful pictures from my Country 🙂

    Sounds like you had a great time….

    All the best,
    Birthe

    Reply
  15. God's Calling says

    August 26, 2011 at 3:34 pm

    I think you have been EVERYWHERE!

    Reply
  16. Angela Felsted says

    August 26, 2011 at 3:41 pm

    Wow. Never heard of pickled seaweed before. I like the statue of the Little Mermaid. Hans Christian Andersen's version is a lot less "happy ending" than Disney's.

    Reply
  17. lapetitepancake says

    August 26, 2011 at 4:13 pm

    I've always wanted to visit an ice bar, but I suppose it's like taking a cocktail outside in MN winter. haha!
    Also, The Little Mermaid was totally my favorite Disney movie as a kid. It would be interesting to see a city filled with that history.

    Reply
  18. Reeni says

    August 27, 2011 at 12:10 am

    How neat that you saw Roger Moore! The ice bar sounds like a fun place to visit too! Nyhavn is beautiful.

    Reply
  19. Gloria says

    August 27, 2011 at 1:27 am

    Look beautiful!!

    Reply
  20. Joanne says

    August 27, 2011 at 9:39 am

    Oh how lovely! I would not have guessed that those were leeks. They look delicious!

    Reply
  21. Lola X says

    August 27, 2011 at 11:42 am

    Absolutely fantastic blog!!! Glad I found it! Love it!!!

    Lola x
    http://lola-x.blogspot.com

    Reply
  22. shaz says

    August 27, 2011 at 1:32 pm

    Beautiful, sounds like a wonderful holiday.Love that ice chandelier. I learn so much from your travel posts Beth 🙂

    Reply
  23. Julie says

    August 27, 2011 at 2:11 pm

    Beautiful!! Sounds like a lovely trip. I hope you will be sharing your cruise with us.

    Reply
  24. Rita says

    August 27, 2011 at 2:25 pm

    Fantastic post; your photos are so nice!
    Rita

    Reply
  25. lisamichele says

    August 27, 2011 at 4:19 pm

    I have a good friend who lives in Copenhagen who I met when she worked as an au pair in NYC about 10 yrs ago. She keeps the invite open, and the more I see photos like this, the deeper the desire to see Denmark, runs. 🙂

    OH, the sponge candy really does weaken the knees, and my willpower!

    Reply
  26. Jeanne says

    August 27, 2011 at 7:06 pm

    What a gorgeous place! I hope to visit Denmark someday. I'd love to see the ice bar!

    Reply
  27. jillbert says

    August 27, 2011 at 7:36 pm

    It looks fabulous, and love the tidbit about your tongues not sticking to the ice!

    Reply
  28. Sue says

    August 28, 2011 at 5:03 pm

    I would love to go to the Ice Bar. What a unique experience!

    Reply
  29. John Placko says

    September 15, 2011 at 2:36 am

    I hope to go to Ralea the next time I'm in Copenhagen.

    Reply
  30. Beth says

    September 15, 2011 at 9:59 pm

    It was thanks to you, John, that we had such a terrific meal. We'll have to get your recommendations whenever we go on holidays!

    Reply

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