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March 8, 2012

Thursday’s Child: Retiro Park, Madrid

Last week I wrote about one of my favourite parks, Park Guell in Barcelona, Spain.  Today I’ll share a completely different park that we visited on the same trip, this one in Madrid. 
Retiro Park is a beautiful city landscape, just a short walk from our hotel and the Prado museum.  While Park Guell celebrates the natural beauty of its surroundings, Retiro features sculptured trees and meticulous flower gardens.  Long paved promenades lead through the park, meeting each other at right angles. 
Built in the 17th century, the park was originally intended for the sole use of the Spanish royal family.  The gardens were made open to the public in the 18th century, but admission was restricted to those who were formally dressed.  (Admission rules have been relaxed somewhat since then.)
The heart of the park is a large manmade lake in the centre.  We spent an hour rowing around the lake, taking time to admire the enormous monument of King Alfonso XII by its side.  After disembarking, we meandered around its perimeter, enjoying the musicians and street artists.
One of the saddest days in the history of Madrid happened in March 2004, when a series of coordinated bombs struck its commuter train system.  A year after the bombings, 192 olive and cypress trees were planted in Retiro Park, one for each victim of the attack.

We weren’t aware of the significance of those trees on the day we visited, but there was something about Retiro Park that seemed emblematic of the city of Madrid.  It’s what we chose to do on our first afternoon in Madrid, our first afternoon in Spain, when we were still mastering the basics of the Spanish language. And as we enjoyed our lunch by the lake in Retiro Park, we felt like we had a little insight into this beautiful city and its magnificent country.

Filed Under: Spain

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Mary Anne MacCrone says

    March 8, 2012 at 1:15 pm

    Gorgeous gardens – taking pictures there would be a dream! You are a lucky girl, Beth!

    Reply
  2. Belinda says

    March 8, 2012 at 2:38 pm

    That tree looks like a giant broccoli! I (sort of) want to eat it.

    Reply
  3. jhl says

    March 8, 2012 at 3:00 pm

    Oh! This brings back such memories for me … my father was born in Spain, and I traveled there a few times as a child and young adult … I've only been back once as an adult, but it was with my husband, and we went rowing on the lake in Retiro Park, too. 🙂 Thank you!!

    Reply
  4. Aarthi says

    March 8, 2012 at 3:05 pm

    nice post

    Reply
  5. Angela Felsted says

    March 8, 2012 at 3:31 pm

    Retiro park is impressive. I especially like how they shape the bushes.

    Reply
  6. Valerie says

    March 8, 2012 at 3:32 pm

    The topiary trees are lovely, they remind me of Alice in Wonderland. And like Belinda mentioned in her comment, that first one is making me crave a salad! 😀

    Reply
  7. Yummy says

    March 8, 2012 at 4:13 pm

    Gorgeous photos!

    Reply
  8. Cindy says

    March 8, 2012 at 4:52 pm

    Thank you for taking me to Spain–it's the only way I'll get there!
    Beautiful photos.

    Reply
  9. Barbara says

    March 8, 2012 at 4:52 pm

    Haven't been to Madrid since the 90's, but I love the story of planting the trees in remembrance.
    The art in that city is divine. Let alone the food.

    Reply
  10. Angie's Recipes says

    March 8, 2012 at 7:42 pm

    wow I really love these photos. The first one looks so fun.

    Reply
  11. Miriam says

    March 8, 2012 at 9:45 pm

    What a beautiful place! I like that they planted the trees for the victims. It doesn't replace the lost lives but it does send a beautiful message of healing and life.
    Miriam@Meatless Meals For Meat Eaters

    Reply
  12. Carol says

    March 8, 2012 at 10:49 pm

    What a gorgeous place! Your pictures are beautiful.

    Reply
  13. Julie says

    March 9, 2012 at 12:29 am

    What an interesting tree. I love seeing the landscapes in different places.

    Reply
  14. julie says

    March 9, 2012 at 1:47 am

    That is such a beautiful park. Those trees are amazing! Thank you for sharing the pictures and the story behind it. 🙂

    Reply
  15. Neesie says

    March 9, 2012 at 2:28 am

    What a beautiful park Beth.
    I adore trees and your first photo produced a huge smile 😀
    I didn't realise I was going to Spain today…isn't life full of surprises!
    Thank you for inviting me.
    Have a great weekend 🙂

    Reply
  16. Pacheco Patty says

    March 9, 2012 at 3:11 am

    We were right there but didn't have a chance to walk in the park! Your pictures are great and remind me of the fun time we had with or family in Madrid a few Summers ago;-)

    Reply
  17. Elaine says

    March 9, 2012 at 5:59 am

    I really love that first photo of the trees. It looks like such a beautiful place to visit.

    Reply
  18. bakewithjill.com says

    March 9, 2012 at 12:58 pm

    I love all kinds of gardens, and this one looks fantastic. I love the tree in the first photo!

    Reply
  19. Katerina says

    March 9, 2012 at 1:47 pm

    This is a gorgeous place Beth! I've never been to Spain but I know it is a beautiful country!

    Reply
  20. Rita says

    March 9, 2012 at 3:20 pm

    What a beautiful post and pictures. Spain is lovely at this time of the year.We were there in March a few years ago.
    Rita

    Reply
  21. cookingmisadventures.com says

    March 9, 2012 at 3:46 pm

    I want to learn how to sculpt my trees like that! Lovely park, sad story.

    Reply
  22. Pam says

    March 9, 2012 at 9:22 pm

    Those trees in the top picture are awesome!

    Reply
  23. Stina Lindenblatt says

    March 9, 2012 at 11:40 pm

    Oh, man, Calgary is sooooo boring after seeing those photos (not that I was surprised at that).

    I love the trees in the first photo.

    Reply
  24. The Golden Eagle says

    March 10, 2012 at 1:47 am

    I love the fountain–it's so irregular, opposed to the usual perfect symmetry/sculpture.

    Sounds like a beautiful park!

    Reply
  25. Lizzy says

    March 10, 2012 at 1:52 am

    What an amazing park and gardens! I'd definitely love to visit…but I'll only get to the Madrid airport this summer. Some day….

    Have a wonderful weekend, Beth!

    Reply
  26. Becki's Whole Life says

    March 10, 2012 at 3:43 am

    One of my work friends is going to Barcelona soon and I was telling him about the Park Guell and he was going to check it out. one of the girls had been there and said it was amazing. This would actually be more my cup of tea with the gardens. They are both treasures, for sure!

    Reply
  27. lisa is cooking says

    March 10, 2012 at 3:02 pm

    What a beautiful park! Those sculpted trees are like living art. Sounds like a fantastic way to begin a visit to Spain.

    Reply
  28. Lori says

    March 10, 2012 at 10:21 pm

    Those trees in that first photo are amazing. At first I thought it was some kind of food. So perfectly manicured.

    Reply
  29. Anna says

    March 11, 2012 at 5:39 am

    What interesting trees! Gorgeous photos and lovely writing, as always!

    Reply
  30. Raina says

    March 11, 2012 at 2:22 pm

    Just spectacular! I have always wanted to visit Madrid. The trees and shrubs are incredibly beautiful. They almost look fake.

    Reply
  31. backroadjournal says

    March 11, 2012 at 3:25 pm

    What a beautiful park. Thanks for sharing the photos.

    Reply
  32. Joanne says

    March 12, 2012 at 11:45 am

    Ugh I remember those bombings. I love the idea of planting olive trees to remember…the trees of peace and friendship.

    Reply
  33. Kathy says

    March 12, 2012 at 8:28 pm

    I would love rowing around that lake! Such gorgeous photos! Love the first photo of the tree!

    Reply
  34. Lannie says

    March 13, 2012 at 1:19 am

    beautiful pictures! would love to go sometime soon. that tree in your first photo is mind boggling

    Reply
  35. shaz says

    March 13, 2012 at 7:52 am

    When I first scrolled into the post, I thought the topiary was some sort of interesting green dessert you'd made. Oops. Beautiful park, and post, and a little bit sad too.

    Reply
  36. Claudia says

    March 13, 2012 at 2:12 pm

    I have yet to visit Spain and desperately want to – the history – the art – the food! I remember the Madrid bombing well – it was indeed a sad day.

    Reply
  37. Kitchen Riffs says

    March 14, 2012 at 4:21 pm

    Lovely park. I visited Spain years (decades) ago, but mainly stayed on the southern coast. I need to make a prolonged visit. So much to see in the world! Thanks for the inspiration.

    Reply
  38. Cucina49 says

    March 14, 2012 at 7:34 pm

    It's been forever since I've been in Madrid, and I don't remember seeing public space that looked quite like this. Great photos!

    Reply
  39. Medeia Sharif says

    March 15, 2012 at 10:38 am

    I thought that was broccoli at first, lol.

    What a beautiful park. I'd love to go there. I haven't seen anything like that before.

    Reply
  40. Monet says

    March 15, 2012 at 9:11 pm

    We were able to visit this park, and it is truly lovely. This post brought back so many good memories! Thank you for sharing. I hope you are having a blessed Thursday!

    Reply
  41. Sharon K. Mayhew says

    March 18, 2012 at 8:38 pm

    What a beautiful park! I love the trees in the first shot. Thanks so much for sharing your trips with us. I really do enjoy seeing them. 🙂

    Reply
  42. sweetandcrumby.com says

    March 20, 2012 at 1:02 pm

    I would think I had jumped into a fairy tale if I were there. The photos ethereal and breathtaking. So glad you shared these!

    Reply
  43. Amie Kaufman says

    March 21, 2012 at 11:36 am

    Oh, I adored Il Retiro! I was SO ill in Madrid — razorblade sore throat, fever, weak as a kitten, the works. And on top of that, I was trying to answer my agent's offer of rep from my sick bed! Once I was able to move around, my husband took me to the park for the day, and parked me on a rug with a series of icecreams. I read I AM LEGEND (quite a morbid book for such a lovely setting), and we listened to music floating across the water, watched ducklings and other picknickers, and had a lovely time! Such a beautiful, communal space.

    Reply
  44. beti says

    March 22, 2012 at 1:17 pm

    I've never seen a tree like that one! it is really pretty and different, the place looks lovely!

    Reply
  45. Barbara Jean says

    March 22, 2012 at 11:50 pm

    I'd really like to go to Madrid someday. I didn't feel that Barcelona was very "Spanish", and have heard Madrid is much better for that vibe.

    Reply
  46. Beth says

    March 23, 2012 at 12:00 am

    We loved both Barcelona and Madrid, but you're right – they're very different cities. I hope you get to Madrid someday too!

    Reply
  47. sally says

    March 25, 2012 at 5:34 pm

    It has been a while since I visited Retiro Park in Madrid–I'll have to get out my pictures. Thanks for reminding me!

    Reply

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